🍂 Rethinking Fall Cleanup at Cheesecake Bear Ranch

As the days grow shorter and the crispness of fall settles in, gardeners everywhere feel that old familiar pull: the great fall cleanup. Out come the rakes, the pruners, and the endless urge to “tidy up.” We trim, we cut, we sweep away every last leaf, convinced that neatness equals health.

But what if that instinct is backwards? What if the healthiest, most ecologically vibrant gardens are the ones that stay a little wild through winter? The truth is, the best fall gardening practices often look like less work, not more.

At Cheesecake Bear Ranch we’re learning to rethink cleanup with our plum trees, espaliered apple trees, tulip bulbs, strawberries, currants, jostaberries, lilacs, marigolds, and more.


1. Forget the Fall Cleanup: Let Your Garden Stay a Little Messy

It’s tempting to cut everything down to the ground. But leaving standing stems and seed heads can be a gift to wildlife.

  • Marigolds, zinnias, and cosmos: their dried flower heads are a banquet for finches and chickadees.
  • Garlic chives and borage: left to stand, their seed heads provide food for pollinators next spring.
  • Strawberry beds and currant canes: a light layer of leaves insulates their roots while sheltering beneficial insects and salamanders.

That “mess” of leaves isn’t waste. It’s mulch, habitat, and protection.


2. Put Down the Pruners (Until the Time is Right)

Pruning isn’t one-size-fits-all. Timing matters:

  • Lilacs bloom on last year’s wood. Cut them in fall and you’ll lose next spring’s show. Wait until they finish flowering.
  • Espaliered apple trees should be pruned in late winter while dormant, when you can clearly see the structure.
  • Plum trees are best pruned in mid- to late-summer to avoid disease pressure.

Resist the urge for fall “haircuts.” Your patience will be rewarded with blooms and healthier trees.


3. The Best Time to Plant is Now

Fall isn’t just cleanup time. It’s prime planting season.

  • Tuck in tulip and iris bulbs now for a burst of spring color.
  • Plant black lilies for dramatic accents that emerge in spring.
  • Establish jostaberries and currants in autumn while the soil is still warm. They’ll focus on root growth and explode with vigor in spring.

By planting now, you’re aligning with nature’s cycles. Roots establish quietly under cool soil while the tops rest for winter.


4. Treasure in Imperfect Produce

Maybe your plums split in the rain, or a bear “taste-tested” your strawberries. Don’t see them as failures. See them as seed stock.

  • Let those overripe marigold blooms dry fully for free seeds next year.
  • Save seeds from cosmos and zinnias for self-seeding beauty that costs nothing.
  • Even quirky fruit from your apple espalier can provide viable seed for grafting experiments or rootstock.

Imperfect produce can become tomorrow’s abundance.


5. Beware the Hand Cream Trap

When handling seeds, especially small ones like borage, marigolds, or garlic chives, avoid pouring them into your hand. Oils or lotions can coat the seed, blocking the water it needs to germinate. Use a clean envelope, spoon, or gloves.


🌱 The Thoughtful Gardener

A thriving garden isn’t about tidiness. It’s about intention. By letting your plum trees hold their shape until summer, your lilacs bloom in spring, your currants overwinter under leaves, and your bulbs rest beneath the soil, you’re gardening with nature, not against it.

So this fall, resist the urge to over-clean. Keep a little mess, a little wildness, and a lot of patience. You’ll discover that joy grows best when we align with the rhythms of life.

👉 What old garden “rule” are you ready to break this season at your homestead?

No-Till, No-Weed, and No-Fuss Gardening

If you’re looking for a gardening method that requires less work, fewer weeds, and no tilling, the Ruth Stout Method might be your new best friend. Often called the “No-Work Garden”, this technique was pioneered by Ruth Stout, an American gardener and author, in the 1940s. Her approach is simple but effective: instead of tilling or turning the soil each season, you deeply mulch your garden with hay, straw, leaves, or other organic materials—creating a rich, self-sustaining ecosystem that improves soil health year after year.

The Core Principles of the Ruth Stout Method

🌱 Deep Mulching – Instead of plowing, apply an 8-12 inch layer of mulch (like hay or straw) directly on top of the soil. This protects plants, suppresses weeds, and retains moisture.

💧 Less Watering – The thick mulch layer locks in moisture, reducing the need for frequent watering.

🌿 No Weeding – Mulch blocks sunlight, preventing weeds from sprouting and competing with your plants.

🦠 Builds Healthy Soil – As the mulch breaks down, it enriches the soil with organic matter, eliminating the need for chemical fertilizers.

🚜 No Tilling – Tilling disrupts soil structure and microbes. The Ruth Stout method eliminates the need for tilling, keeping the soil healthy and aerated naturally.

How to Start a Ruth Stout Garden

1️⃣ Lay Down Mulch – Spread an 8-12 inch layer of hay, straw, leaves, or wood chips over your garden bed.
2️⃣ Plant Directly Into the Mulch – Move the mulch aside, dig a small hole, and plant your seeds or transplants.
3️⃣ Keep Adding Organic Matter – Over time, add more mulch to keep the layer thick and maintain its benefits.

Why Try the Ruth Stout Method?

Less Labor-Intensive – No plowing, no tilling, and no endless weeding.
Improves Soil Health Naturally – Feeds earthworms and beneficial microbes.
Eco-Friendly & Sustainable – No need for synthetic fertilizers or herbicides.

Ruth Stout proved that gardening doesn’t have to be backbreaking labor. Her method is perfect for busy gardeners or those who want a low-maintenance, high-yield garden. Give it a try, and watch nature do the hard work for you! 🌿💚

Would you like help setting up a planting guide for a Ruth Stout garden in your area? 

Cold-Weather Crops to Plant in March (Direct Sowing or Transplants)

I’m in USDA Hardiness Zone 4b-5a, meaning I have a short growing season with late frosts in spring and early frosts in fall. However, many cold-hardy crops can be planted right now (March 21), especially if you use row covers, cold frames, or raised beds to extend the season.

Cold-Weather Crops to Plant in March (Direct Sowing or Transplants)

These crops can withstand light frost (28-32°F) and even some hard freezes (below 28°F).

Leafy Greens & Brassicas (Cold-Hardy, Tolerates Frost)

Spinach – Grows best in cool weather, direct seed now.
Lettuce (Romaine, Butterhead, Leaf) – Hardy and can be planted now under protection.
Kale – Very cold-hardy, plant seeds or transplants now.
Swiss Chard – More heat-tolerant but can handle cold weather.
Mustard Greens – Grows quickly in cold weather.
Arugula – Cold-tolerant and fast-growing.
Cabbage – Start transplants outdoors with row covers.
Broccoli – Start transplants outdoors.
Brussels Sprouts – Best started early as they take a long time to mature.
Cauliflower – Needs protection but can be planted early.

Root Vegetables (Cold-Hardy, Best for Direct Sowing)

Carrots – Takes longer to germinate in cold soil but does well once sprouted.
Beets – Can handle frost and cold soil.
Radishes – One of the fastest-growing cold crops (ready in 30 days!).
Turnips – Tolerates cold and frost well.
Parsnips – Takes longer to germinate but loves cold weather.

Alliums (Onion Family)

Onions (Sets or Transplants) – Plant now for summer harvest.
Garlic (If not planted in fall, can be planted now for smaller bulbs).
Leeks – Cold-hardy and great for early spring planting.

Peas (Very Cold-Hardy)

Sugar Snap Peas
Snow Peas
Shelling Peas

Tips for Success

Use row covers or cold frames – Protects from frost and extends the season.
Plant in raised beds – Soil warms faster in spring.
Water deeply before frost – Moist soil retains heat better than dry soil.
Watch nighttime temps – Cover crops if temps drop below 25°F.

Would you like a customized planting calendar for your area? 🌱

Winter Sowing with Milk Jugs: A Beginner’s Guide

Winter Sowing with Milk Jugs: A Beginner’s Guide

Winter sowing is an easy and fun way to start your garden before spring even arrives. By using recycled milk jugs or other similar containers, you can create a mini greenhouse that helps seeds germinate naturally. Here’s everything you need to know to get started!


What is Winter Sowing?

Winter sowing is a method of planting seeds outdoors during the colder months. Instead of waiting for spring, you sow your seeds in containers that mimic the natural conditions of the outdoors. As the weather warms, the seeds begin to sprout, giving you a head start on the growing season.


Why Use Milk Jugs?

Milk jugs are perfect for winter sowing because they are:

  • Transparent: Letting in plenty of sunlight.
  • Reusable: An eco-friendly option that reduces waste.
  • Lightweight and Durable: Easy to handle and move if needed.
  • Affordable: A low-cost solution compared to traditional greenhouses.

What You’ll Need

Before you begin, gather these supplies:

Empty Milk Jugs or Similar Containers: Cleaned and with labels removed.
Seeds: Choose hardy, cold-tolerant varieties.
Potting Soil: A well-draining mix suited for starting seeds.
Scissors or a Utility Knife: For cutting the jugs.
Tape or Permanent Marker: To label your containers.
Water: For moistening the soil.


How to Set Up Your Winter Sowing Jugs

Follow these simple steps to set up your winter sowing project:

Prepare the Container:
Rinse the milk jug thoroughly.Using scissors or a utility knife, cut a 3-4 inch opening on the top (the side where the cap was). This opening will allow air circulation and give your seeds room to grow.

Fill with Soil:
Fill the jug with potting soil up to about 2 inches from the top.
Gently press the soil down to remove air pockets.

Plant the Seeds:
Read the seed packet for planting depth recommendations.
Make small holes in the soil with a pencil or your finger.
Place the seeds in the holes and cover them lightly with additional soil.

Label Your Jugs:
Use tape or a permanent marker to label each jug with the type of seed and the planting date.

Water Lightly:
Mist the soil with water. It should be moist but not soaking wet.

Place Outside:
Set your jugs in a sheltered, sunny spot outdoors. The jugs will act like mini greenhouses, using the natural winter conditions to prepare your seeds for spring.


Tips for Success

  • Check Moisture Regularly: While the jugs will retain moisture, it’s important to check occasionally to ensure the soil doesn’t dry out.
  • Ventilation is Key: On milder days, open the jugs for a short period to allow fresh air in, reducing the risk of mold.
  • Seed Timing: Winter sowing works best for seeds that need a cold period to germinate. Check seed packets for compatibility.

Popular cold-hardy vegetables that do well in USDA Hardiness Zones 4, 5, and 6:

  1. Spinach – Thrives in cool temperatures and can withstand light frosts.
  2. Kale – One of the most cold-tolerant greens; flavor often improves after a frost.
  3. Lettuce (Leaf and Romaine) – Grows well in cooler weather and can handle mild frosts.
  4. Broccoli – Prefers cooler temperatures; can survive light frosts and still produce heads.
  5. Cauliflower – Similar to broccoli in cold tolerance, though slightly more sensitive.
  6. Peas – Snow peas and snap peas can germinate in cool soil and tolerate light frosts.
  7. Radishes – Quick-growing root vegetable that can handle cooler soil temperatures.
  8. Carrots – Can germinate in lower temperatures and develop sweeter flavor after light frosts.
  9. Onions (Sets or Seedlings) – Hardy and can be planted early in the season.
  10. Brussels Sprouts – Similar to kale in cold tolerance, improving in flavor after frosts.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

  • Condensation Build-Up: If you notice too much condensation, slightly open the lid during sunny periods.
  • Mold: Ensure the soil isn’t too wet and that the container is well-ventilated.
  • Pests: Using a fine mesh or netting over the jug can help deter small critters.

Winter sowing is a great way to jumpstart your garden in an eco-friendly and budget-friendly manner. By using milk jugs, you’re not only recycling but also creating a nurturing environment for your seeds. Enjoy the process and look forward to a vibrant garden come spring!

Gardening the Ruth Stout Way: Embracing No-Till, No-Fuss Organic Gardening

Gardening the Ruth Stout Way: Embracing No-Till, No-Fuss Organic Gardening

Gardening offers both a fulfilling hobby and a sustainable way to produce healthy food. Among the many organic gardening techniques available, the Ruth Stout method stands out for its simplicity, minimal labor, and soil-friendly approach. In this article, we delve into the history of Ruth Stout, the pioneer behind this technique, and provide a detailed guide to her no-till gardening method.


Who Was Ruth Stout?

Ruth Stout (1884–1980) was a forward-thinking gardener and prolific writer who revolutionized organic gardening with her “no-work” approach. Rejecting the common practices of tilling, heavy digging, and chemical inputs, Stout developed a method that focused on building a rich, living soil simply by mulching. Her philosophy was that nature provides the best means to nurture the garden if given the right conditions. Throughout her career, Ruth Stout authored numerous books and pamphlets that encouraged gardeners to work with nature, promoting biodiversity, conservation, and sustainability. Her methods were accessible to everyone, from beginners to seasoned horticulturists, and continue to inspire a growing community of organic gardeners around the world.


The No-Till Gardening Method: An Overview

At its core, the Ruth Stout method is a no-till system that relies on thick layers of organic mulch to suppress weeds, retain moisture, and gradually feed the soil. By eliminating tilling, gardeners preserve the natural structure of the soil, protect beneficial organisms, and reduce the risk of erosion. This approach not only simplifies garden maintenance but also aligns with ecological principles by fostering a self-sustaining environment.


Step-by-Step Guide to the Ruth Stout Method

  1. Site Preparation and Design:

    • Assessment: Choose a garden site with good sunlight and access to water.
    • Planning: Map out your garden beds, considering crop rotation and companion planting principles.
  2. Laying Down a Weed Barrier:

    • Initial Weed Control: Clear the area of large weeds. Ruth Stout recommended using a thick layer of newspaper or cardboard directly on the soil to suppress existing weeds.
    • Organic Foundation: Lay down 10–12 layers of newspaper (or several layers of cardboard) over the garden bed, overlapping the edges to ensure complete coverage.
  3. Applying Organic Mulch:

    • Mulch Selection: Use a variety of organic materials such as straw, hay, shredded leaves, or grass clippings.
    • Layering Technique: Apply a generous layer (typically 6–12 inches thick) of mulch directly over the newspaper. This not only feeds the soil as it decomposes but also acts as insulation, retaining moisture and moderating soil temperature.
    • Continuous Mulching: Add new mulch periodically throughout the growing season to maintain depth and efficacy.
  4. Planting:

    • Direct Sowing and Transplanting: Plant seeds or transplants directly into the mulch layer by cutting small slits or creating small holes. For deeper-rooted plants, gently dig through the mulch if necessary.
    • Spacing Considerations: Ensure that plants have enough space to grow, bearing in mind that the mulch will eventually blend with the soil.
  5. Maintenance and Observation:

    • Minimal Intervention: One of the core principles is to let nature take its course. The mulch decomposes slowly, adding nutrients back into the soil and reducing the need for additional fertilizers.
    • Natural Weed Suppression: As long as the mulch layer is maintained, weed growth is naturally suppressed, reducing or even eliminating the need for weeding.

Practical Examples and How-To Tips

  • Vegetable Gardens: For a tomato or pepper bed, lay down your newspaper base, add a thick layer of straw, and plant your transplants directly through the mulch. The straw will decompose, providing a steady nutrient supply while keeping the soil cool during hot summer days.
  • Flower Beds: When planting annuals or perennials, follow the same no-till process. The thick mulch layer helps to protect delicate root systems and conserves moisture during dry periods.
  • Herb Gardens: Herbs benefit greatly from the natural pest control and moisture retention provided by the Stout method. Consider interplanting herbs with vegetables to take advantage of companion planting benefits.

How-To Tip: For gardeners new to this method, start small. Experiment with a single raised bed or container garden to get accustomed to the process before expanding. Observe the gradual improvement in soil structure and plant vitality over time.


Conclusion

The Ruth Stout no-till gardening method offers a sustainable, low-effort approach to organic gardening that honors natural processes. By eliminating tilling and relying on generous layers of organic mulch, gardeners can cultivate a thriving ecosystem that nurtures both plants and the soil. Whether you’re a seasoned organic gardener or a curious beginner, the Stout method invites you to reconnect with nature and enjoy a healthier, more sustainable garden.

What aspect of the Ruth Stout method would you like to explore further or experiment with in your garden?